Longer-lasting fragrance: Oil-based perfumes have a more concentrated and long-lasting scent than alcohol-based perfumes. The oil-based formula helps the fragrance stay on the skin for a longer time, which means you don't have to reapply it frequently.
Flor Oscura Perume Oil Roller.
Clean Perfume Oil with Rose, Amber, Spice
Totally tantalizing, Flor Oscura is a voluptuous blend of natural, rousing oils like wild rose, warm sandalwood, and deep amber.
Better for sensitive skin: Oil-based perfumes are better for people with sensitive skin. Alcohol-based perfumes can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. On the other hand, oil-based perfumes contain natural oils, which can soothe and moisturize the skin.
No alcohol smell: Oil-based perfumes don't have the strong alcohol smell that is often associated with alcohol-based perfumes. This means you can enjoy the pure fragrance of the perfume without any interference from the alcohol smell.
Can be used on hair and clothes: Oil-based perfumes can be used on hair and clothes as well as on skin. This means you can enjoy the fragrance of the perfume all day long, even after it has faded from your skin.
More natural ingredients: Oil-based perfumes typically contain more natural ingredients than alcohol-based perfumes. This is because natural oils are the primary ingredient in oil-based perfumes, whereas alcohol is the primary ingredient in alcohol-based perfumes. This makes oil-based perfumes a good choice for those who prefer more natural products.
Overall, oil-based perfumes have several benefits over alcohol-based perfumes, including a longer-lasting fragrance, better for sensitive skin, no alcohol smell, can be used on hair and clothes, and more natural ingredients.
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Vegan leather is cruelty-free One of the most significant benefits of vegan leather is that it is cruelty-free. Unlike real leather, which is derived from animal hides, vegan leather is made from synthetic or plant-based materials. This means that no animals are harmed or killed in the process of producing vegan leather, making it a more ethical and sustainable choice.
Vegan leather is environmentally friendly The production of real leather has a significant environmental impact. Leather production requires a lot of water, chemicals, and energy, and the tanning process generates toxic waste that can harm the environment. In contrast, vegan leather is made from sustainable materials like pineapple leaves, cork, or recycled plastic, which require fewer resources and have a smaller environmental footprint.
Vegan leather is more affordable Another benefit of vegan leather is that it is more affordable than real leather. Leather handbags can be expensive due to the high cost of the raw materials and the intensive labor required to process them. In contrast, vegan leather handbags are generally more affordable, making them a practical choice for those who want to stay stylish without breaking the bank.
Vegan leather is versatile Vegan leather can be made to look and feel like real leather, but it also has some unique properties that make it a more versatile material. Vegan leather can be dyed in a wide range of colors and textures, allowing for greater creativity and customization. Additionally, vegan leather is often more lightweight and easier to care for than real leather.
Vegan leather is more accessible Because vegan leather can be made from a wide range of materials, it is more accessible than real leather, which is limited to animal hides. This means that vegan leather is a more inclusive material that can be used by people of different cultural backgrounds, beliefs, and lifestyles.
Vegan leather handbags offer a more ethical, sustainable, affordable, and versatile alternative to real leather handbags. As consumers become more conscious of the impact of their purchasing decisions, vegan leather is becoming an increasingly popular choice for fashion-conscious individuals who want to look good and feel good about their choices.
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]]>As we move forward to a better fashion industry for all, it’s crucial to consider our support of female leaders and figureheads as an integral part of our efforts to reimagine the fashion industry of tomorrow. As a female led ethical brand, Angela Roi hopes to shed some light on these aspects of the fashion industry.
Similarly to fashion’s ironic reluctance towards female leadership, a report from Forbes notes that “while consumer demand for responsibly-made apparel is on the rise, it seems that most retailers are dragging their feet when it comes to sustainability efforts.”
Emphasizing how crucial female leadership and ethical fashion are to the future of the industry, impactful female-founded fashion brands and retailers such as Girlfriend Collective and Amour Vert are revolutionizing the industry for the good of all creatures. Among these newcomers is Angela Roi, the no-sacrifice handbag brand offering accessories that are both ethically made and exquisitely designed to be approachable to all.
While pursuing a degree at Northeastern University, Angela realized how difficult it was to find a fashionable handbag which was ethically made, cruelty-free, and high quality. Seeing the need for change, she dropped out of school to found Angela Roi in 2013.
Envisioning a world without compromise, Angela Roi’s handbags are meticulously constructed with the finest non-animal materials in a minimalist, classic-contemporary style. Their designs are tested and held to high standards of durability, showing the industry that you don’t have to harm an animal to achieve a timeless look that’s all your own.
Demonstrating the company’s dedication to ethical practice, the team’s prestigious artisans take pride in their craftsmanship, and are aided by years of expertise, handmade touches, and attention to detail to guarantee that no AR product will end up in a landfill. The company ensures fair wages and comfortable conditions for their artisans through quarterly visits to their factories in Korea, taking a stand against the industry norm of sweatshop labor.
There are many ways in which Angela Roi has contributed to our evolving understanding of ‘ethical fashion,’ as well as it’s imperative place in fashion’s future. Shifting the narrative around the consumerist values and fast-fashion practices that Black Friday’s discounts promote, the brand staged a “Rebellion Against Black Friday” last year, urging community members across the globe to donate to causes that matter to them in exchange for a gift code. The initiative was driven by the desire to shift their audience’s holiday focus from “buy more” to “give back,” while still ensuring that fans of the brand could access ethically made products at a more accessible price.
Keeping with their mission to transform the way we think about fashion, Angela Roi has turned the industry on its head by proving that vegan handbags can be held to the same standards as luxury leather products, and that fashion doesn’t have to be harmful. Through their steadfast belief that splendor and virtue can coexist, the brand has called forth a community of independent thinkers who are united by shared values, demonstrating with poise and purpose that responsible practice and female leadership are the way of the Future.
]]>What happens when an artist combines her love of sculpting and vintage jewelry? A vintage-inspired line of hand-forged jewelry that is nothing short of stunning.
Ariana Boussard-Reifel turned her passion into a business last year when she launched her online store, Marteau, which sells her carefully curated collection of global antique and vintage jewelry. More recently, she introduced her own jewelry line, Ariana Boussard-Reifel, which is inspired by the artists, cultures and traditions she's observed throughout history and around the world.
The best part? Not only is her collection produced ethically and locally in New York City, but she lives a sustainable lifestyle, too. There is nothing new in her magnificent wardrobe and impeccably decorated apartment. Boussard-Reifel found everything she owns from vintage and antique shops, second-hand stores or on the street. We spoke to her about her ethical business and lifestyle to find out how she does it all.
So you are an artist, you sell vintage jewelry and you design jewelry. How does it all fit together?
Interestingly enough, they all seem like different extensions of the same pursuit. In all these ways I’m looking to express and share a kind of beauty and humanity. My art has to do with the body and identity, which is very closely married to adornment. It might sound a little high-minded for a jewelry dealer to be expressing ‘humanity,' but I focus on finding jewelry that means something, not just to the wearer and the maker, but to the society as a whole. Tribal jewelry is unique in that it expresses a cultural mentality. It bears symbolism that can be read and interpreted by everyone of a particular group. It becomes a form of identity and so, from these ideas I am designing jewelry that is a minimalist approach to the tribal jewelry I love. It seems more appropriate for this time and age and more apt for the modern woman’s identity.
Every city in every country has its own cultural history and traditions. How do you choose which places to draw your inspiration from?
I don’t think that my inspiration is so direct or purposeful. I have a gigantic mental database of jewelry and artifacts from years of collecting, traveling and visiting museums. When I sit down in my studio to design some pastiche, all of it comes out in physical form. My design process is very organic.
Books from which Ariana draws inspiration and a few of her designs. Photo by Samantha Sitt.
What’s one of your favorite pieces of jewelry you’ve made lately?
It’s so hard to pick favorites, but I’m almost always wearing a Despina cuff in sterling silver and I have a new cuff from my second collection that I stack with it. I also wear the Baucis earrings almost every day!
Ariana wearing the Despina cuff in sterling silver, stacked with other braceletes. Photo by Angela Griffe.
You say you draw much of your inspiration from art history. Are there certain artists who inspire most of your work?
I often reference artists that have a strong alter-ego that they present through their art. Whether it is Frida Kahlo, who painted herself as she wanted to be, or the contemporary artist Andrea Mary Marshall, who is both chameleon and disciplined in her identity. I believe that by adorning ourselves we’re manifesting as we want the world to see us, so looking at artists who do this well helps me understand my goals.
How is your jewelry sustainable?
I’ve run a vintage shop for a long time and sustainability is, in many ways, innate to that business, so when I began designing and fabricating jewelry I had to go through a whole new vetting process for keeping my business sustainable. All of our jewelry is made by hand using ethical and sustainable practices. We work with a small team of local craftsman who are paid living wages to cast from recycled metals. Our packaging is recycled and recyclable. We participate in a carbon neutral program to offset the shipping from our online store and we donate 1% back to environmental causes each year.
Less directly, I think a lot about the longevity of my designs. I make jewelry that is not trendy or seasonally focused. I cast only in solid materials, brass and sterling silver without plating. Plating will wear off. I want my designs to sit comfortably among my 100 year old vintage jewelry, knowing that it will last as long. This feels both sustainable and like a good investment.
Do you find that working in New York City helps you maintain a sustainable lifestyle and business? How so?
The simple fact that New York is so communal certainly helps. I always travel by public transportation and live without a car. City-dwellers are by nature a little lighter in terms of carbon footprint because we share so much.
Were you always interested in a sustainable lifestyle? How did you become interested in your adult life?
I grew up on a ranch in Montana, so the impact on the earth from human action was very visible. My parents are artists and activists, so finding and buying used items seemed like a way to be creative as much as it was a way to be environmentally conscious. Because of that, I’ve never had much of an appetite for consumption by standard terms, so keeping my impact low has always come easily for me.
Ariana in her Upper West Side apartment. Photo by Samantha Sitt.
Do you incorporate any pieces from your vintage jewelry collection into your current jewelry designs? If not, do you glean inspiration from any pieces in your vintage collection?
The majority of my designs originate with inspiration from antique tribal silver jewelry. I often look at these designs from tribal life or antiquity and I try to reimagine them to fit into the contemporary fashion world. Some pieces become fairly direct translations and others are more obtuse. I also have a large collection of antique beads that I am looking forward to incorporating into a collection, but that hasn’t come to fruition yet. My vintage jewelry and my designed jewelry seem to work hand and hand. I have lots of crossover customers and I feel that both kinds of jewelry speak well to the same idea of finding beautiful, well-made, long lasting objects and making them a part of your life.
Pieces from the Ariana Boussard-Reifel Collection. Photo by Angela Griffe.
Leora Herman is an editorial intern at Ethica. She is studying Psychology at Columbia University and Modern Jewish Studies at the Jewish Theological Seminary in New York City.
The (reversible!) dress that is taking over our fall wardrobe!
Photographer:Rof Ruiz. Stylist: Brynn Elliott Watkins. Hair & Makeup: Rebecca Casciano. Model: Anastassia Bianchi/APM.
]]>Renee Peters. Photo via model4greenliving.com
Renee Peters is not your typical fashion model. After five years working in the industry for one of the top agencies in the world, Wilhelmina, Peters felt that she needed to make a change in her life–one that would not only lead to self-improvement but also better the world around her. Slowly but surely, she gave up fast fashion in favor of an eco-friendly, vegan and sustainable lifestyle.
Now, she runs her own website and blog, model4greenliving.com, that teaches others how to maintain this mindful way of life and the benefits of doing so. We asked Peters about her successes and struggles with conscious living, and how her day job has impacted her journey toward going green.
What are some of your favorite ethical clothing brands?
My favorites include both ethical and sustainable brands. For clothing I love: Amour Vert, Bassike, Elizabeth Suzann, Kowtow, Mara Hoffman, Reformation, Stella McCartney, Study NY and Zady. For accessories and shoes, I love: Angela Roi, Coclico, Cuyana, Freedom of Animals, Rachel Comey and Veja.
What was hardest about going green?
The hardest thing about going completely green has been doing it while being a member of the fashion industry and wanting to express my personal style. As a model and someone who really loves the art of fashion, it has been hard not shopping from mainstream designers. I have to work harder at curating my own look because I am doing it from a much smaller pool than most. There just aren’t very many sustainable designers available that fit my aesthetic. At least for now. I will say that it gets easier every season as I continue to curate pieces that I love.
How long did the process of going green take you? Did it evolve over a number of years or did you wake up one day and decide to do it?
Going green has been a six-year journey for me and it doesn’t seem overwhelming because it is something I approach one decision at a time. Living green is a constant process, as is life. Interests and needs change throughout our lives, so trying to adapt from one way of life to another overnight isn’t the best option.
For me, it is about making the best choice from the options I have. I have been successful at implementing sustainability in my life because I build upon every day. Slowly but surely, all of the choices I have made have become more and more green and subsequently, so has my life.
How has being a model helped you in your mission to go green and educate others? How has it hindered you?
From my experience it hasn’t really hindered me. On the contrary, it has given more of a platform. The fashion industry is hugely influential. From advertising to social media and everything in between, it permeates our daily lives. Being a model from this industry therefore gives you influence and access to media that doesn’t exist for most people. I have found that people are willing to hear what I have to say as a model who otherwise might not care or give my issues the time of day.
Peters carrying the weight of the world on her shoulders. Photo for Psychology Today via Peters' Instagram.
Have you experienced any backlash from people in the fashion industry?
In my experience, I haven’t received backlash. I work on a level that is close to the artists, not the corporations. I approach my lifestyle and the way I interact with others always from a place of compassion. As a result, I have been met with curiosity and excitement by my peers.
That isn’t to say that big fashion corporations and advertising agencies haven’t turned me down for work, because I would never know. As a model you only know about jobs you confirm, not ones you don’t book.
Do you ever see yourself starting your own line of ethical and sustainable fashion?
I’m not sure if I could ever create my own line, as I am not so much an artist or designer but more a scientist and activist. I would, however, love to work with designers as a consultant and help create sustainable fashion one day! The fashion industry is in desperate need of sustainable innovation and I would happily take part in that.
What’s the most important piece of advice you would give to someone who is just starting on their sustainable lifestyle journey?
Take it one step at a time and don’t be hard on yourself. Approach the transition as something fun and exciting because it really can be if you approach it with a positive attitude. Don’t try and change overnight or throw away all of the unsustainable things you already own. Instead, use the things you have until they are completely worn out and you need to replace them. When you do replace them, go with the sustainable option.
For something more immediate, always carry a reusable bag. Plastic bags are a horrible waste and very bad for our environment. Carrying a reusable tote every day insures that you won’t need to choose plastic for whatever it is you may buy.
You write a lot of reviews on books about sustainable living. What book would you recommend to someone who wants a basic introduction to the topic?
Thrive: An environmentally conscious lifestyle guide to better health and true wealth is a great resource for anyone looking for practical tips on going green and living more sustainably. The author, K. Chayne, and I are both members of the Ethical Writers’ Coalition, which is also a wonderful resource for anyone looking to learn more.
How has your style change since you decided to stop wearing fast fashion?
My style has evolved a lot. My wardrobe is much more curated and reflective of my personal aesthetic now, where it used to be constantly changing to keep up with the trends. I have also become much more resourceful as a shopper. If I can’t find what I like from sustainable designers, I love going to second hand and consignment shops to find what I need. Overall I feel much more confident and excited about the clothing I wear because each piece is carefully considered and are also things I feel morally good about wearing.
Leora Herman is an editorial intern at Ethica. She is studying Psychology at Columbia University and Modern Jewish Studies at the Jewish Theological Seminary in New York City.
Hanna Baror-Padilla wearing an Ace & Jig dress from Ethica
One of the best parts of working in ethical fashion? Meeting an amazing community of women–and getting access to their reading lists, green-beauty secrets, entrepreneurship strategies, favorite recipes and more. Instead of keeping all of this intel to ourselves, we asked Hanna Baror-Padilla of Sotela to share all of her go-to resources for fun, work and conscious living.
Your career path, in a nutshell (e.g., Waitress. Movie extra. Actress. Oscar-Winner):
Entrepreneur / girlboss.
Your personal style, in three words:
Timeless, bohemian, comfortable.
Capsule wardrobe, yay or nay:
Nay. I like having all of my clothes right where I can see them, especially since my week and weekend attire is on the opposite spectrum. I wrote this post about why I don’t like capsule wardrobes.
Your wardrobe workhorse:
Black high-waisted skinny jeans make any outfit look more put together.
The fast / mainstream fashion brand you secretly love:
Even though I’ve never shopped at this store (crazy, I know!), I secretly love Anthropologie’s clothing. Their clothing is classic and bohemian, which is my favorite.
The last song you listened to:
The last book you read:
WomanCode by Dr. Alisa Vitti. If I could give any woman advice, it would be to buy this book because there are so many things we don’t know, especially how nutrition directly affects our menstrual cycle. In a different life, I would’ve been a nutritionist.
Languages you speak:
Spanish and English.
The last challenge you overcame:
Apart from working through my fear of starting a business, I’ve been dealing with some health issues that I finally got answers for after reading WomanCode. I told you it was life-changing! Last year, I had some digestive issues and other symptoms that pointed to a hormone imbalance. My doctors didn’t even realize it and kept giving me different medications that didn’t work. It’s been a slow recovery, but I’ve been healing myself with nutrition. While going through these issues last year, I kept thinking how much I couldn’t wait for Sotela to launch because none of my clothing fit! I was so bloated that I looked pregnant every single day. I know firsthand how great it will be to have pieces in your closet that will always make you feel amazing.
The recipe you make most often:
Minimalist Baker’s vegan pizza! Minimalist Baker is a genius and the main blog I use for recipes.
Your favorite sustainable tool or discovery:
The Good Guide, which rates every product imaginable. I love looking up the beauty products I can’t make like sunblock and makeup.
The last thing you bought online:
An Ecoalf down jacket made with recycled plastic bottles! I was unsure how it would hold up with the cold and rain, but it definitely proved its worth this winter.
Your favorite Ethica brand:
Litke–I love their feminine aesthetic.
Hanna wearing a Litke coat from Ethica. Photo by Carlos Andrés Dueñas.
Your social medium of choice:
Instagram, even though it drives me nuts! I would probably post more if I wasn’t constantly questioning the quality of pictures I want to post.
Your biggest eco “sin”:
Until recently, I drove 60 miles every single day to my full time job. I would have taken the train if there was a route! Gotta love Southern California’s public transportation system.
A picture of your pets:
Your favorite natural beauty product:
Coconut oil. I use it for everything including deodorant, toothpaste, makeup remover and lotion.
The one thing you want people to know about ethical and sustainable fashion:
You get what you pay for! The biggest complaint I hear is that ethical and sustainable fashion is too expensive because they are used to paying next to nothing for clothing at the mall. Yes, it is more expensive, but quality clothing is an investment. Is it better to spend $20 several times a month on cheap shirts or to buy one shirt that costs $50?
Sotela–a collection of the “last dresses you’ll ever need” that are designed to fit a woman’s ever-changing body–is currently available for preorder on Kickstarter.
Carlos Andrés Dueñas is a fashion and portrait photographer based in New York City. Born and raised in Bogotá, Colombia, he’s also an avid traveler and passionate tango dancer. See more of his work at carlosandresduenas.com.
Sofia Hultquist, composer: drumandlacemusic.com
April 24th will mark three years since the walls of Rana Plaza crumbled in Bangladesh, killing 1,134 people and injuring more than 2,500 others in what would become the largest garment factory accident in recorded history.
After the tragedy, corporations promised change. And yet: many of the reforms enacted in response to the Rana Plaza disaster have been significantly delayed, and most of these revised standards will not even apply to 60 percent of factories in the country. Fast fashion giant H&M, which manufactures heavily in Bangladesh, still lacks emergency exits at 55 percent of its factories, despite its stated commitment to improving worker safety.
But every year since Rana Plaza, citizens in more than 70 countries come together to remember the lives lost, and to call on the fashion industry to move away from cheap labor that imperils lives. Led by Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro out of London, Fashion Revolution is a global movement that encourages shoppers to ask, #WhoMadeMyClothes?
Ahead of this year's Fashion Revolution Week, taking place April 18-24, Ethica invited a group of women–each a champion of ethical and sustainable fashion in a different way–to submit an #InsideOut portrait and stand in support of fair labor and transparent supply chains.
Hoda Katebi, writer, photographer and activist; joojooazad.com
Rachael Baxter, co-founder and editor-in-chief of Conscious Magazine, consciousmagazine.co
Nikki Novo, life coach and motivational speaker; nikkinovo.com
Robin Reetz, fashion editor and blogger; secondfloorflat.com
Sara Weinreb; entrepreneur, imby.io
Nathalia Orquera, organic lifestyle blogger; marialovesgreen.com
Brandie Gillian, founding editor & creative director at Thoughtfully Magazine; thoughtfullymag.com
Inspired by their example? Join in by sharing your own #InsideOut image and asking who made your clothes. As some Zara customers discovered last year, you may even receive a reply.
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There is, of course, the potential for a Taylor sighting. But these days, the draw of the Music City is as much about its fashion scene than its live acoustic sets, thanks to a growing number of independent brands that are putting down roots in the Tennessee state capital.
Perhaps it’s the city’s vast supply of Instagram-ready lofts (does all Nashville real estate come with a stellar rug)? And there are also the efforts of the recently formed Nashville Fashion Alliance, which was launched via a $100,000 Kickstarter campaign. Whatever the reasons, Nashville is home to an enviable share of sustainable and independent fashion, from artisan-crafted shoes to American-made denim. Below, discover six brands that are making us want to head south for some mindful shopping.
Elizabeth Suzann
At a time when some brands are trumpeting same-day delivery, Elizabeth Suzann asks its customers to wait two to three weeks to receive its made-to-order clothing, bags and shoes. Delaying gratification while each order is “cut, sewn, packed and shipped” seems to be alright with shoppers, though–the company has reported revenue projections of nearly $5 million for 2016. More importantly, the decision to shun speed allows Elizabeth Suzann to focus on quality and creating products that are worth the wait: “Our hope is to return to the days of a minimal, functional wardrobe worthy of care and passing on,” the brand says in its mission statement. “We cut and sew all of our garments locally in our Nashville design studio using only the highest quality, natural fiber cloth.”
Han Starnes
With a tightly edited palette that is mostly free of patterns, Han Starnes’ eponymous label doesn’t immediately say “textile designer.” But textiles are indeed at the heart of this Nashville-based brand, which started as a collection of accessories crafted from handspun wool on vintage sewing machines. Today, the selection has evolved into a range of relaxed and timeless womenswear, but with a continued focus on traditional fabric-making techniques. The styles span Alabama-made jersey pieces fashioned from U.S.-grown organic cotton, to heavily textured natural fabrics that are handspun, handwoven and then sewn into garments in Starnes’ Nashville studio. The infinitely layerable black dress above has sold out since this piece was first conceived, but you can still snag yourself a pair of wide-leg white pants made from surplus denim.
Imogene + Willie
Imogene + Willie started with a 3 a.m. email back in 2009, in which founders Matt and Carrie Eddmenson outlined a dream: “We wanted to make something that would last. We wanted to make things in the U.S.A. We wanted to build community.” Seven years later, it is mission accomplished for the couple, whose flagship Nashville boutique–a former gas station–has become a destination for anyone visiting the Music City (the company hosts regular Song and Supper concerts in its backyard). The site is also where the Eddmensons originally cut and sewed their denim, which is still made in America with a focus on process and fit.
Annie Williams
Annie Williams’ past is written all over her brand aesthetic. Her campaign images–all long-haired girls lounging in beat-up cars, kicking up dirt on country roads, and leaning on gas-station walls–resemble album covers and hark back to what originally brought Williams to Nashville: a record deal. The rugged sensibility of her Wyoming upbringing, too, comes through in her work. Williams’ minimalist handbag designs highlight the thick leathers she favors, which come from vintage sources or from famed American tannery Horween. The range of sturdy totes, slender wallets and oversized envelope clutches are all made locally in-studio in limited-edition quantities.
Nisolo
Most ethical fashion lovers light up at hearing the name Nisolo, a brand that pays premium wages to the skilled Peruvian cobblers that make its shoes, as well as to the Kenyan artisans that craft its new line of jewelry. Though Nisolo’s workshops are located abroad, the design aesthetic is in line with that of its Nashville counterparts: clean lines, a penchant for neutrals or versatile colors, and a visible emphasis on quality craftsmanship.
Two Son
A newcomer to the Nashville fashion scene, Two Son is co-owned by Bleubird blogger James Kicinski-McCoy–a helpful detail that earned it an instant following and even a writeup in Vogue. The boutique stocks Ethica favorites like Ace & Jig and Ryan Roche, but it also boasts a namesake private label of meticulously designed wardrobe staples. Find domestically made denim–a standout is the skinny black “Bird” style–and on-point basics, most notably in the form of vintage-wash box tees.
Melissa Cantor is the co-founder and editor of shopethica.com. A longtime journalist, her writing has been published by New York, CNN, NBC and others.
We’ve been singing the praises of Flynn & King’s skin-smoothing Balance toner for months now, but don’t take our word for it. Instead, heed the advice of Vogue, which notes that this all-natural face mist “will hit the refresh button on your skin.”
The all-natural formula “can be spritzed throughout the day to calm and nourish the complexion, thanks to an infusion of aloe leaf juice and rose geranium hydrosol,” the editors write.
So you heard it here–and there. Get to spritzing!
The all-natural formula “can be spritzed throughout the day to calm and nourish the complexion, thanks to an infusion of aloe leaf juice and rose geranium hydrosol,” the editors write.
So you heard it here–and there. Get to spritzing!
]]>Inside the Hi Wildflower Botanica studio. Photo courtesy of HWB.
Why Hi Wildflower Botanica was started:
“I started the line in August of 2014, just as I finished the last touches of my novel, Bright Lines. The book, being my first, required a lot of research, travel–and I wanted to connect to this after finishing a project that had taken so many years. I've always been into collecting scents, since so many of my memories from childhood are laced with a specific scent. So, I crafted a line of perfumes devoted to the scents I've collected from the places I've traveled. Each candle is inscribed with an original poem, to add to the ritual aspect of lighting candles.”
Favorite products from the current collection:
“That's a hard one! My favorite perfume is Lovers Rock, although I've been wearing Night Blossom, too.”
One thing every new customer should know about Hi Wildflower:
“Hi Wildflower is a complete labor of love. From the small Brooklyn-based team we have making the products, to my creative direction for new products–everything is thoughtfully crafted to let our customers into the world of Hi Wildflower.”
Hi Wildflower in three words:
“Free-spirited, adventurous, colorful.”
What have I been up to, you ask? Well, to start, I’ve spent most of my recent Fridays on my laptop in the Ethica office, configuring web content for the Stories section of our website, learning from co-founders Melissa and Carolina, and petting the team mascot, Jack. If I’m not formatting pieces written by our contributors, I’m probably writing the content myself. More specifically, I recapped NYFW with an ethical shoe slant, wrote a navigable ethical leather guide for the shoppers who don’t have time to translate the typical ethical fashion jargon (that’s our job), and interviewed designer sibling duo Delikate Rayne.
In my quest to better educate myself and others, I found myself at ethical fashion events around campus and New York City over the past few months. I attended an Everlane Room Service event to check out their display of shoes–as well as to explore how they define transparency. What I learned is that their commitments are different than the philosophy at Ethica. While the company discloses a great deal relative to its pricing, there is room for far greater transparency regarding the wages of their workers and sourcing of materials. That said, I do applaud them for using vegetable-tanned leathers, and I’d be thrilled to see them move toward upcycled and sustainable vegan options as well.
Is Everlane ethical fashion? I went to ask the question. One thing's for sure, though: they make beautiful shoes!
Thanks to my efforts, sustainable styles from Ethica will also be making an appearance in Hoot magazine, the Barnard and Columbia fashion magazine. Their most recent issue focused on “origins”–and what better way to speak to that theme than knowing exactly where your clothes came from? The clothes I pulled for the shoot are from Pima Doll. I got an all-access pass to the photo shoot, traipsing around the Lower East Side with the Hoot editorial and creative teams to see how they’d incorporate their Pima Doll picks.
A behind-the-scenes look at the Hoot magazine shoot.
When I’m not actively promoting Ethica and sustainable fashion, I’m probably sleeping. Just kidding. I do other things. But it’s not an exaggeration to say that I’m almost always wearing something from Ethica (Litke is my second skin, Angela · Roi carries all my belongings, and I like to cozy up in a Carleen sweatshirt), or that I am constantly talking about sustainable fashion to my friends–those who care about it and, more importantly, the ones who don’t. The latter are my targets, in a sense–the people I’d like to convert to ethical fashion believers. Because once you know the damage the fast fashion industry does to the environment, and once you’re clued in on the harrowingly real conditions in most factories, you can’t go back. Fast fashion becomes illogical and unsettling. There’s no easy way to turn a blind-eye to the environmental and social impact of this industry. If I can plant a seed in the back of someone’s mind that encourages him or her to, at the very least, think about the power he or she has as a consumer and the choices he or she makes, I consider it a success.
Working at Ethica hasn’t been much of a work process at all–it’s transcended that by a long shot. It’s changed the way I shop, the way I think, and the ways in which I use my money. My dreams of shopping sprees have been replaced by that of capsule closets and artisan-made heels (more specifically, the peep-toe Alden booties by Bhava).
My ambassadorship and internship have come to a close, but Ethica isn’t the kind of place that’s going to be “out of sight, out of mind.” Consumerism is ever present, so ethical fashion is ever relevant. Don’t worry, ethical fashion friends (and those I’ve yet to convert)–you’ll be hearing from me.
It’s difficult to find ethically-produced and eco-friendly sportswear labels–even small ones. And in my journey to create such a brand, I’ve found myself puzzled as to why this might be.
Here’s my theory: Performance-level gear has to be top notch. You can’t run a marathon in shorts that ride up or fall apart after the first wear, so most runners find what works and stick to it. And I don’t blame them! Plenty of surprises can pop up on race day without worrying about whether your gear will hold up. Technical and wicking fabrics are simply necessary for some activities where sweat is involved (and chafing risk is high). If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right?
Right. Except that I believe runners and athletes deserve sustainable and ethical options, and that more of them would buy this type of product if they knew that a) it existed and b) it was the same quality as their usual brands. Athletes tend to be a pretty altruistic bunch–a personal observation that’s supported by the increasing number of running events with a charitable giving component within the last decade.
So, as an athlete, what should you look for if you’re interested in finding sustainable workout gear? Here’s my abbreviated guide to sustainable materials that are suitable for serious workouts.
Recycled Fabrics
If you’re a runner, you probably run in a synthetic material like polyester or nylon, spandex or some combination of the two. Spandex on its own is not a sustainable fabric, but it’s incredibly useful as a performance material. Luckily, many blended fabrics contain small amounts spandex, typically 12 percent or less, with the rest made up of the recycled synthetic. Some fabrics that fall into this category include:
Repreve: Recycled polyester has boomed in the last decade with the development and success of Repreve, a high-quality material made out of recycled water bottles. Some bigger brands are starting to use Repreve in a few of their products.
RPET: A generic version of Repreve commonly referred to as either PET or RPET, this material offers a similar fabric content without the brand name.
Vita: Made by Carvico, Vita is a blended fabric partially made from recycled fishing nets. While innovative, it’s mostly suitable for water sports right now–triathletes and swimmers, you’re in luck!
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers like bamboo, hemp and soy can also be friendlier to the earth and to those producing the material than their traditional counterparts.
Bamboo is a soft, abundantly available fabric that does not require the use of harmful pesticides. Hemp is a durable fabric that doesn’t require a lot of water to produce–and while it’s being grown, it absorbs carbon dioxide. Soy fabric has a “closed-loop” process, so that any waste produced is reused in the next production cycle.
In order to make bamboo, hemp or soy fit for performance-level, spandex is again added. Most of these blends result in lightweight, slightly stretchy and smooth fabrics. I personally use this type of blend for workouts where I know there will be a lot of humidity, because they’re highly absorbent (great for wiping away sweat)!
These are just some of the features of some of the options, and it’s important to note that there is no “perfect” fabric or material that exists yet for sportswear. Information on how to find sustainable activewear is sparse, but retailers are required to list fabric content on product labels–so now you at least have an idea of what to look for. I encourage all eco-conscious athletes to join me in learning about the best way forward for a more sustainable activewear industry.
Update (4.26.16): Cause I Run’s Kickstarter campaign is live. Support it here.
]]>Why the line was started:
“Organic Bath Co. was founded out of a need for simple, organic and natural ingredients, luxurious formulas and visible, skin-loving results.
Several years ago, I started developing hives in reaction to the mainstream lotions and creams I was using. After a bit of elimination and research, I discovered I was reacting to the countless fragrances and preservatives in these products. My partner, Jay, ended up making me an unscented, shea butter-based body cream, which my skin loved. We started making more products for myself, friends and family, and Organic Bath Co. was born.”
Doherty with her go-to winter skin salve: Organic Bath Co.'s organic body butter, Drenched.
Favorite products from the current collection:
“It’s like choosing a favorite child! I have two products that I use daily: Our Enhance face oil–two drops is just what my skin needs to glow, so I can feel confident and go makeup free. I also use the Stress Less body oil at the end of the day after my shower. I apply while my skin is still damp to seal in all the moisture. The Bulgarian lavender is soothing and sets me up for a wonderful sleep!”
One thing every new customer should know about Organic Bath Co.:
“Our tagline is ‘True Beauty Begins With Giving Back,’ and we’re passionate about incorporating that philosophy into our lives whenever and wherever we can. Our ingredients are natural and kind to the planet, we’re Fair Trade Certified, we use post-consumer packaging and we give back with every purchase to our charitable partners, 1% For the Planet and the Global Soap Project. We believe that a business can thrive and still do good as it grows. This has been our goal since day one.”
Organic Bath Co. in three words:
“Pampering, quality, self-care.”
The idea for A Wool Story came from a passion for all things handmade and sustainable. The more I learned about the harm to the environment that the fashion and textile industry is responsible for, the more I wanted to lead by example and raise the question: can there be another way?
By using recycled wool from reclaimed sweaters, A Wool Story provides limited-edition, handknit pieces that create no harmful environmental impact. Each piece is unique due to the limited quantity of yarn from each sweater, as well as the natural variations that arise from the process of dyeing it by hand.
Sustainability is taken into consideration in every step along the way, from the domestically sourced organic cotton sew in labels, to the handstamped recycled kraft paper hang tags, to the recycled paper mailers in which each order is sent out. Customers can feel good in A Wool Story knowing their piece was hand knit with love in a sustainable way.
Unraveling sweaters to recycle yarn requires more work and preparation than just purchasing yarn from a store, but it’s a labor of love and provides the challenge to be more creative with the materials.
Visit awoolstory.com to learn more and shop these reclaimed creations.
With an investment in the welfare of the environment (“our carefully selected vegan leather is eco-friendly and PVC-free”) and a whole lot of girl power (“male-dominant social norms prevail in our native country, [where] gender expectations linger”), this cruelty-free brand is bringing an edge to the vegan fashion scene.
What was the turning point in your careers that made you jump from software development and jewelry design (respectively) to ethical fashion?
Meg: At the risk of sounding cliché, having our own line is something we always wanted to bring to fruition. That coupled with seeing the void in the industry for cruelty-free fashion that wasn't so granola like is something we wanted to help fill.
Komie: When we realized there was a void in the market for a cool, cruelty-free, fashionable line. We needed to spice up the community. Everything we saw was stale. We wanted to bring life to that.
How would you describe the Delikate Rayne aesthetic?
Meg: It’s clean, effortless cool meets dreamy experimental.
Komie: Delikate Rayne embodies the Triple E factor: edgy, ethical and everlasting.
In the spirit of timelessness, who are your style icons?
Meg: That’s really mood-dependent for me. In this particular moment, though: Gaia Repossi, Zoe Kravitz and David Bowie.
Komie: I say this a lot, but I don’t gravitate toward a particular person. I love seeing how women from all over the world dress, so I love how the internet has made that possible with sites such as Tumblr, where you can see styles and trends from all over the globe. I’m small, so it’s interesting to see how women of my size make certain looks work for their bodies.
A campaign image that captures the Delikate Rayne spirit.
Where does your interest in ethical fashion stem from?
Meg: We were born and raised vegetarian–and still have never even tasted meat before. Our parents are responsible for a lot of the consciousness we learned at an early age in regards to having feelings about the environment and animals. I swear our mom is the plant whisperer. Plus our father was raised Jain, so that lifestyle of non-violence was something we became aligned with from the get-go.
Also, I’m really into all the coverage documentaries have been giving to the waste and toxic practices [with which] the fashion industry is aligned. If you haven't seen The True Cost, you must. It will totally change your perception.
Komie: I feel like we were born into it. We were exposed to that type of lifestyle ever since we were kids being raised vegetarian, with our mom and dad being Hindu and Jain.
What is the best and worst part about running your own business?
Meg: When sh*t hits the fan, it’s all on you, and that can be completely overwhelming. On the other hand, though, when you experience the triumphs, it’s that much sweeter because you played such a pivotal role in the success you are experiencing. That is a beautiful feeling.
Komie: The best part is that you are in control of what you want to do and how you want to do it. The worst part for me is that I am very hard on myself and sister. I’ll keep pushing and pushing for the best. I'm such a perfectionist. It is a catch 22. Even if you are in control and making all the decisions, the worst part is that if something goes wrong or not how you wanted it to go, you have to accept that mistake, digest it and deal with it. The only person you can be upset with is yourself.
Meg and Komie Vora. Photo courtesy of Delikate Rayne
What do you look for when you’re sourcing materials? Do you find that sustainable vegan materials are hard to source?
Meg: Our number one thing would be, is it actually 100 percent vegan? Making sure there no animal byproducts. With certain materials, you have to be extra careful. Also, the quality–does it look cheap? How does it feel? Is it going to hold up? Then it’s about the sustainability, followed by what the end product will look like. We usually have the silhouette or particular style narrowed down before looking for the fabrications. At the very least an idea of what we want the garment to look like. We then look for textiles we feel would translate well in those styles.
Cruelty-free leathers used to be challenging. Recently they have gotten so much better in terms of quality, though. Every year the vendors continue to step their game up, which is exciting–more colors and styles with improved construction.
Komie: Quality is very important to us. We try to source fabrics that are a great alternative to if it was the actual real thing (leather, fur, silk, etc.). I think we are at a time where people are starting to demand ethical fabrications, so we are slowly having access to more and more options.
Vegan brands often have company mascots. Do you guys have any, and can we meet them?
Meg: We did. Two floppy-eared dwarf bunnies, Pumpkin and Theodore...R.I.P. Oh, but we do have a trio of squirrels that come visit us everyday and nibble on our succulents. They could be considered our unofficial Delikate Rayne studio mascots, and they make cameos on our Snapchat, too.
Komie: Yes, we have Meg–she serves as multiple purposes for the company! On a serious note, unfortunately, at the moment we do not. We use to have bunnies. R.I.P., Pumpkin and Theodore.
A Delikate Rayne campaign shot.
How does your relationship as siblings differ from a typical business relationship? Do you each have “roles” that arise from a family dynamic?
Meg: We already know for the most part each other’s strengths and weaknesses. That’s definitely an advantage. You don’t really have that luxury when working with strangers until you get to know them better, if ever. Also, you don't have as much trial and error, so you can get things done more quickly or know out the gate what is and isn’t going to work. We spend so much time together that we just have this innate intuition about each other. It’s bizarre, but helpful.
Komie: We are best friends as well as business partners. The relationship doesn’t change much, but we are strict on one another when it comes to business. We hang out a lot, but we definitely need our own space at times. I’m the baby of the family and the more quiet one, for sure. I’m actually really shy.
How do you respond to the sentiment that ethical fashion is unaffordable and people who say they can’t afford a product like yours?
Meg: It’s better to save up and splurge on that one special something than to have a collection of a lot of random stuff that doesn’t make sense. Society continues to teach us more is better. Unfortunately, this is what is ingrained in people’s heads, and it follows them 24/7. We need to get individuals to unlearn this belief. They need to realize that is about quality over quantity. Anything of quality has a higher value and therefore is going to be more expensive. There are so many other factors involved in making something of this caliber. That process is what you are paying for. The end product is something you are going to hold on for a long time–it’s not some disposable item meant to be thrown away after wearing it twice.
Fast fashion is killing the planet and tons of humans in third world countries, where the majority of those pieces are made. As people continue to be educated on the true cost of their clothing, hopefully they will make better purchasing decisions and realize in the long run that the products are not expensive. They are an investment.
“In the long run, the products are not expensive. They are an investment.”
Komie: Educating people is the most important part. I have friends who say the same thing to me, and once I explain why our price points are the way they are–they’re made in the U.S.A., sustainable, ethical, timeless, and so on–people start realizing they aren’t getting ripped off. They are actually buying a product that is more beneficial for them in the long run. Think of it as an investment while doing something good for the planet. Do you invest in your body? Do you pay a higher price for food that you consume? Yes? Then why not invest in a wardrobe that is not only timeless but also healthy for you and the environment?
After much research, Ethica is now carrying a selection of safe, noteworthy skincare and fragrance products. Check out our full Meet the Makers series for a behind-the-scenes look at our favorite clean beauty brands, starting with Corinna McDonnell of Flynn & King.
The Flynn & King lineup.
There are plenty of “natural” brands out there, but how many (aside from those that made our cut, thank you!) really live up to their claims? With Flynn & King, you never have to doubt that when they say natural, they mean it. This Brooklyn-born line, started by McDonnell and Summer Dinh Manske, makes every effort to create clean, all-natural products–all while decreasing its carbon footprint and giving back to the community.
Why the line was started:
“Summer and I started Flynn & King after working together at a natural hair salon. At the salon, we had the opportunity to see many so-called ‘natural’ beauty lines and were always disappointed to find that many brands that claimed to be all natural had a lot of synthetic fragrances, phthalates and preservatives. We made it our mission to create a multifunctional, unisex and 100-percent natural line that anyone can use and know that it is guaranteed safe. No hidden gross stuff here!”
Flynn & King's Driftwood soap, which benefits I’m From Driftwood, a nonprofit devoted to spreading acceptance for the LGBTQ community.
Favorite products from the current collection:
“The one I cannot live without is the Revive oil-based cleanser. It is a truly unique and amazing product. We wanted to create a facial cleanser that had all of the benefits of oil cleansing, but with added homemade Castile soap to rinse cleanly. The smell is amazing and fresh, and I can’t say enough good things about it.”
One thing every new customer should know about Flynn & King:
“We are problem-skin solvers and want to help you switch to a cleaner and greener way of treating your skin. We also aim to help our community as much as we can. We’ve partnered with several local Brooklyn charities to help give back and can’t wait to do more! We live by the motto ‘Do Good. Look Great.’”
Flynn & King in three words:
“Eco-conscious, transparent, modern.”
Tropiano is the newly minted VP of Strategic Partnerships for the nonprofit, which aims to eradicate modern-day slavery through a mix of awareness campaigns, field work and business solutions. (Ethica is one of 34 companies working with Made In A Free World to examine our products’ supply chains and identify areas potentially at risk for the use of forced and child labor.)
Despite her late night, Tropiano was lively and infectious as we took a walk down the High Line. Within minutes of conversation, she’d had us check our cosmetics for mica (an ingredient that is mostly mined by young girls in India), added The Locust Effect to our reading list, and created an Ace & Jig layering situation that was pretty darn perfect.
Hear about the disturbing conversation with a stranger that led Tropiano to commit her life to fighting human trafficking, and how she went from being an admitted shopaholic to a champion of #consciousclosets.
Tropiano on the High Line wearing head-to-toe Ace & Jig.
Certain issues are so overwhelming that our tendency can be to think of them in conceptual terms rather than as realities. What’s one thing that you want people to know about human trafficking and how very real it is? In 2009, I took a trip to Nicaragua to visit a child I sponsor at an orphanage in Leon. I struck up a conversation with a young man living in New York and teaching middle school P.E. I asked him what he was flying to Nicaragua for. He told me he wanted to hike the volcanoes. Then he looked up at me and, straight-faced with no emotion, said, “All my buddies have been there. They say the sex is cheap. You get young girls for cheap.” That conversation changed my life forever, and I’ve been fighting for human dignity ever since.
There are evil people like that school teacher from New York who seek to prey on the vulnerable and poor. I experienced it firsthand. Trafficking doesn’t just happen in movies. We are incredibly blessed to be born here. We can’t take that for granted.
You’ve written–bravely and beautifully–about how attached we can become to our clothes. How long has it been since your big closet cleanout, and what’s the best part about having a less-than-half-full closet? Thank you! I cleaned out my closet in a huge way in March of this year. I got rid of over half my clothes. It is a relief. I feel like a weight has lifted in a lot of ways. My husband I recently moved to a new home with small closets, and I was actually thrilled to see that all I had left took up half my closet. That’s a very different mindset from when I was proud of owning 50 pairs of designer jeans.
I continuously ask whether an item of clothing will bring me joy and only purchase something if it fulfills that. I also try to adopt a one-piece-in, one-piece-out mentality. There’s something to be said about having a small amount of beautifully curated, quality pieces rather than a closet full of fast-fashion throwaways. A friend of mine says, “Happy people make happy things.” I truly believe that. I want everything I own to be made by happy people. I’d rather spend money on something good and have less to make that happen.
“A friend of mine said, ‘Happy people make happy things.’ I truly believe that. I want everything I own to be made by happy people.”
Do you think your #consciousclosets journey would have been different if you had gone through it privately rather than sharing your progress on Instagram–and now on your new blog? I’ve always been a passionate, wear-my-heart-on-my-sleeve kind of person. I’m super inspired by people who are vulnerable enough to share their stories and what they are learning. So I thought if I can help someone who is in a similar place as me through sharing my story, that’s awesome!
I believe my personal journey would have remained the same whether I shared it openly or not, but if even one person starts to think differently about fast fashion or shopping addiction or human trafficking, it’s worth it to me to be public. I live to inspire change in myself and in others. That motivates me more than anything. When I see small changes in friends or family taking place, that’s a real win.
Visit Made In A Free World’s Slavery Footprint calculator to discover how your choices might be impacting people around the world. Keep up with Tropiano on Instagram (@johannatropiano) and at consciousclosets.co.
Shocked and disgusted, I immediately texted my husband and sister telling them we could never shop again. It was a tad extreme, but I didn’t know there was a thriving ethical fashion industry out there. Gold Polka Dots continued to be a fashion blog, but it also evolved into a hub for eco-conscious living. I researched ethical fashion companies, started thrift shopping and looked into what else I could change to be more eco-friendly.
While discovering ethical brands, I noticed a lack of options for women. Yes, there are many ethically made women’s clothes, but not a lot for women who are pregnant. Seeing that obvious gap made me wonder how often women go through changes in life and need more forgiving clothing. I didn’t want to create a maternity line, but a collection of clothing for women who’ll always have something to wear.
“How often do we go through changes in life and need more forgiving clothing? I didn’t want to create a maternity line, but a collection for women who’ll always have something to wear.”
With the amount of clothing Americans throw away (about 70 pounds a year), I wanted to create products that women can wear for far longer than a year, even if they are pregnant or gaining or losing weight. That’s why every item in my new brand, Sotela, will span several traditional sizes.
Sotela’s looks draw inspiration from flowy and loose-fitting styles like this one. Photo by Cali Vintage via the Sotela blog.
Sotela’s first collection, launching next spring, will have three dresses made in Los Angeles from eco-friendly jersey fabrics. Each dress will have a variation on an A-line shape–which, in my opinion, is one of the most flattering and forgiving designs. Think swing dresses, shifts and tunics that hit right above or below the knee. Every item in Sotela’s collection is made to be timeless and effortless so that women don’t have to face the “nothing fits” dilemma.
Sotela is my dream company. It combines my love for clothing, humans and the environment.
Sign up for Sotela’s newsletter for exclusive peeks at the design process and to be the first to know when the line launches on Kickstarter next year.
In a recent email, the designers offered a glimpse at the making of their stunning Geo fabric, which they created in two colorways for fall 2015. Here’s what they revealed about the process behind the pattern.
The Inspo
Photos: greens_antiques on eBay.
The black and natural versions of Ace & Jig’s Geo fabric were inspired by antique American coverlets from the mid-1800s. For any seriously obsessed fans out there who might want an original overshot quilt to match the brand’s sartorial adaptation, head over to eBay STAT. We happened to stumble upon the reversible quilt pictured above, and both patterns look to be nearly identical matches for the striking textile that everyone’s obsessing over this season.
The Process
Ace & Jig fabrics are made in India, where a color specialist described as “something of a magician” by the designers dyes the raw natural fibers by hand. The yarns dry out in the sun before being loaded into antique handlooms. The rest of the process relies on the skill of the weavers, who deftly use their hands and a foot treadle to work the ancient looms and create the intricate patterns we all love so much.
The Design
“The square motif in our Geo fabric is known as a ‘Lover’s Chain,’” Vaughan and Wilson note, adding that the fabric is “a 100 percent cotton double-cloth.” Some trivia: Each side of the two-ply fabric is identical to the other because both layers of the textile are woven simultaneously.
The Results
We can’t say enough about these gorgeous, geometric compositions of black, red and ecru. The designers, though, say it’s the tactile appeal of their two-ply fabric that adds a special touch: “The doublecloth weave lends this textile an heirloom hand and feel.”
Producing home goods provides a respite from “the (short!) fashion schedule,” says Ellen Van Dusen, who unveiled her debut line of bedding, bath and home accessories this spring. “In this first collection, I brought back some of my favorite prints from past seasons, which was really nice because I was able to extend their lifespan,” she told Sight Unseen.
Whether your pad could use some new pillows, a wall lamp or a hanging flower pot, look to the same designers who are leading the way in responsible fashion to bring sustainable style into your home.
1. Ace & Jig
Considering the painstaking process behind Ace & Jig’s custom textiles (not to mention the cult-like devotion they inspire), it would be a shame to let a single scrap go unused. But wastefulness would be uncharacteristic of designers Cary Vaughan and Jenna Wilson, whose Bazaar line of home goods expertly mixes and matches the duo’s greatest fabric hits in the form of patched pillows, double-cloth quilts and their popular “flags”–oversize fabric swatches strung together to create playful banners.
2. Shabd
Our Instagram pals might remember Shabd Simon-Alexander’s Earth Day upcycling project, in which the fashion designer and textile artist worked some of her tie-dye skills on customers’ used bedding. Simon-Alexander treated old sheets and pillowcases to colorful makeovers, later returning them to their owners as more “magical, colorful” versions of their former selves. Though that service is no longer on offer, the Shabd shop is still stocked with pillows, napkins, throws and tea towels created by the woman who taught Martha Stewart how to tie-dye (true story!).
3. Dusen Dusen
The decorative potential in Ellen Van Dusen’s colorful prints is off the charts, and it’s something she clearly knows. “I like the scale of these kinds of items, their longevity in a home, and the idea of creating a space full of color and pattern,” she says. Among the towels, throws, rugs, bedding and poufs in Dusen Dusen’s debut home line (which launched on its webshop this month), loyalists will recognize the label’s signatures scribbles, geometric patterns and distinctive Alphabet print.
4. Upstate
In a few short years, Kalen Kaminski’s collection of shibori scarves has grown into an incredible range of Vogue-approved clothing, plus home decor items like floor pillows, table runners and organic cotton duvet covers. This summer, Kaminski partnered with Brooklyn boutique owner Jill Lindsey on an exceptionally cool blanket collab. Made by artisans in Nicaragua using locally sourced materials, the fringed throws are woven on 90-year-old looms, then dyed by hand in NYC.
5. Under the Canopy
Most chemicals are absorbed through the skin, which is a big reason that Under the Canopy is committed to safe, sustainable textiles–if you don’t want toxic pesticides or carcinogenic chemicals on your clothes, you probably don’t want them on your sheets and towels either. Our go-to brand for GOTS-certified, organic-cotton basics has a bedding and bath collection that reflects the same sensibilities: classic and neutral colors, pure materials, functional design, plus some fun mixed in via printed and embellished pillows.
6. Proud Mary
After finding inspiration in both the indigenous peoples and brightly colored textiles of South America, Charlestonian Harper Poe channeled her design talent into global artisan collaborations aimed at craft preservation. If there’s anything we could possibly covet more than Proud Mary’s recycled-denim sandals or Lesotho-made ponchos and vests, it’s the brand’s indigo blankets from Mali and huipile pillows from Guatemala–both the embodiment of an aesthetic Poe calls “ethnic modern.”
7. Indego Africa
Indego Africa has a two-prong approach to breaking the cycle of poverty in Rwanda: selling handcrafted pieces made by female artisans, and investing that income into education programs for those same women. The nonprofit has created jewelry and accessories for the likes of Madewell and Nicole Miller, and its home offerings are just as compelling. Think wooden bowls and woven baskets, drinking glasses made from upcycled cow horn, and even embroidered art.
8. Study
Study’s Tara St. James took the runner-up slot in last year’s CFDA / Lexus Eco Fashion Challenge for the many ways she advances ethical and sustainable fashion. Among those contributions? Her commitment to zero-waste. One of the ways St. James keeps her excess fabric cuttings from ending up in landfills is by turning the pieces into hand-stitched patchwork quilts. Study has even collaborated with likeminded brands Fait la Force and Osei-Duro on some quilts, thereby salvaging some of their textile surplus also.
9. Bohemia
Bohemia’s clothing has a free-spirited flair worthy of its name. The aesthetic carries over to the Scottish brand’s collection of bold home accessories, but it’s expressed with more restraint: look for fringed hammam towels made by artisans in Turkey, canvas storage pots that were block-printed in Rajasthan, and pom pom pillows and blankets handloomed by Moroccan weavers. If your inclinations are more minimalist, look to the surprisingly spare line of kitchen utensils, carved in Marrakech from unvarnished wood.
10. Ivana Helsinki
Did you ever have a dress you loved so much you wanted to turn it into a lamp? The quirky thought occurred to Ivana Helsinki designer Paola Suhonen–a tireless creative collaborator who’s previously teamed up with everyone from Volvo to snowboard brands. This time around, she worked with Finnish lighting company e.lite on a group of floor, table and ceiling lamps featuring prints from her past collections. It’s mood lighting on a whole new level.
11. Carleen
In the darkest days of winter, few things feel more precious than an insulated layering piece à la Kelsy Parkhouse, who sources reclaimed vintage quilts and turns them into one-of-a-kind, borderline-magical vests and coats. Once the fabric for the vests and coats has been cut, there are leftover pieces that are too small to turn into outerwear. Voilà: Carleen quilt pillows, which even ring in at under $100.
It’s an incredible balancing act. To a new mother, the earth can seem complex, overwhelming, even discouraging. So with my company, Mamachic Co., I set out to inspire and simplify life for women like me.
I created a garment that both lessens the everyday load for a mama (it can be used as a nursing cover, burp cloth or swaddle blanket) and keeps her self-confidence growing (there are at least 25 ways to style it). Versatility, sustainability and, yes, beauty drive Mamachic.
Video: 15 Ways to Wear the Mamachic Scarf
We source renewable resources like bamboo to create our fabric; we keep our carbon footprint low by choosing eco-friendly vendors within an 80-mile radius of our sew shop; and we proudly manufacture in the U.S.A., at a worker-owned cooperative that pays living wages and gives back to its community. These small but important choices give me peace of mind for my kids’ future–and yours.
Mamachic scarves launched this week on mamachic.co. P.S. We’re pretty sure this new-mom must-have will go over well with minimalists and travelers, too.
The scarf pictured here was made by artisans in Bengal using a 2,000-year-old weaving technique called jamdani. And to our delight, several more Ethica items–including styles by Ace & Jig, Etnia Barcelona, A Peace Treaty and Merchant Society–are showcased in this summer fashion story.
Sneak a peek at more of the looks on Thoughtfully’s blog, and pick up Issue 3 to see the full feature.
]]>During her 18-year tenure as VP and fashion director of Barneys New York, Gilhart used her vaunted position to promote a more principled approach to apparel production, and she lent important support to ethical labels including Loomstate, Alabama Chanin and Organic by John Patrick. In 2008, she even challenged the likes of Martin Margiela, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren to create sustainable looks for an in-store fashion show–the first time, according to Gilhart, that many of the participants were tasked with incorporating environmental considerations into their design process.
Speaking with the sustainable design publication Ever Manifesto last year, Gilhart said it was the exorbitant cost of a Parisian couture show that woke her up to the excesses of the fashion world.
“Someone told me it cost over a million dollars to produce,” Gilhart said of the show. “At the time, there were an increasing amount of discussions happening on the negative impact that we were having on the planet. Poverty, especially in certain regions of Africa where food and water were scarce, was a hot topic in the news. I was looking at the clothes–none of which were available for sale, as everything was based on fantasy–and all of a sudden it did not make sense for me. It was a moment of change for how I would do and see things.”
Since parting ways with Barneys in 2010, Gilhart has worked as a fashion consultant, counseling brands and conglomerates on sustainability strategies, as well as helping Amazon hone its approach to luxury retail. This month, she and friend Simon Collins, former dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons, launched the first of what may become a monthly event series called Fashion Garage, during which the two dispensed free advice to anyone seeking it.
“I was surprised at the questions that came in terms of responsibility and sustainability. We had a lot of people asking about how you can incorporate that into what one is doing,” Gilhart told Redef in a lengthy interview following the event. “That surprised me, but also made me really excited because it’s a platform I do love to explore.”
Gilhart and Collins during the inaugural Fashion Garage. Photo via style.com
As always, Gilhart's views on sustainable fashion are nuanced and insightful. Here are four things, ranging from encouraging to eyebrow-raising, that she said to Redef on the subject.
1. Customers do–or will–care.
“If you’re in the fashion business, you do one of two things: you follow trends, or you pick up on energy and you create energy. I think that sustainability–or responsibility, or ethics, or whatever you call it–is an emerging trend that does have energy. You have to pay attention to it.”
2. This movement is in the hands of small brands.
“There are three things you can really look at [in creating a sustainable brand]: What is your supply chain? What are your materials? And how and where do you produce–who’s actually making it? When you’re big and already have a developed business, it’s really hard to go back and re-do. If you’re small, it’s easier to build.
“Sometimes it seems more costly, so you have to examine it. The first step is to be conscious and aware of where you are right now and start to chip away at it. If you think you’re going to build the Pyramids, it seems impossible. But if you start with one stone, eventually you’ll get the Pyramids built.”
3. Ethical fast fashion is not an oxymoron.
“We spend a lot of time talking about the bad things. Take fast fashion. Everybody bashes fast fashion. In my dreams, I would love to see a fast fashion brand that’s made well, that has a proper supply chain, that uses great materials. That pays homage to the human part of it, to the labour. I think it’s possible.
“We need to look at the way the world is now–pretty soon we’re going to have nine billion people on this planet. That’s a lot of people to clothe. We still need to push ways of rethinking the way we buy and use clothes. It’s going to take a lot of changing consumer behavior, and we all know that behavior is hard to change. We need to chip away at that, but we also need to accept the fact that fast fashion will probably exist–so let’s make it better. You can still be a profitable business and be a responsible business.”
4. It may be investors, not consumers, who ultimately bring about change.
“The other thing about sustainability that I think is very interesting is the investor scene. We’ve seen the tragedies that can come from not doing things in the right way–for example, Rana Plaza, where over a thousand people were killed. So, what does that say if I’m an investor? I want to invest in something that’s pretty much risk-free, [and] we’re seeing how risky not being sustainable can be.”
Gilhart also shared her take on whether fashion designers are overworked, why breaking into fashion is easier today than ever before and plenty more. Read the interview in its entirety on Redef.
Available on Netflix starting today, this documentary is a compelling crash course on the problems with the modern-day fashion industry–from the health risks that genetically modified cotton seeds pose to communities right here in America, to the unimaginable working conditions endured by the world’s 40 million (primarily female) garment workers, to what’s happening to the 70 lbs. of clothing each of us is tossing every year.
The True Cost reveals what happens to the clothes we donate or discard.
Spoiler: It’s not pretty. It’s a daunting, emotionally draining subject, and this film doesn’t sugarcoat it. To be honest, as much as I’d been looking forward to the release of this film and the arrival of my Kickstarter reward for backing the project, I waited several weeks from the time I received my DVD before I sat down and watched it. Even though I think about these issues every day, I was expecting this movie to make me upset–and it did. I expected to feel frustrated, and for all of the collective progress we’ve made on this front in recent years to seem small. Check, check.
What it did not make me feel, however, was hopeless. In fact, my most important takeaway from this documentary was a reminder of how very fixable this problem is.
Building on the frequent comparison between slow fashion and slow food, Paste Magazine likens The True Cost to Morgan Spurlock’s 2004 documentary, Super Size Me. Aside from being apt, the analogy offers reasons to be hopeful: Fortune recently reported that, as shoppers have shifted their support toward small, local and responsible producers, the top 25 U.S. food and beverage companies have lost an equivalent of $18 billion in market share since 2009. It’s an impact that has prompted Big Food to change the way it does business.
In 2015 alone, Kraft Foods removed synthetic colors and artificial preservatives from its mac and cheese; General Mills cut sugar content in Yoplait yogurt by 25 percent and made Cheerios GMO-free; Hershey promised to have “clean labels” (i.e., simple ingredients) for its signature Kisses by the end of the year; and both Tyson and McDonald’s stopped selling chicken treated with human antibiotics.
It’s real change driven by consumers who sought, and found, alternatives to the status quo. And it’s change that, perhaps in part, began with a movie.
Learn more about “The True Cost” at truecostmovie.com.
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Photo by Phil Cavali
Leilani Münter is a force to be reckoned with. She is one of the leading female NASCAR drivers in history, and she only drives cars powered by renewable energy. I actually got to watch her in a race where she partnered with The Solutions Project, which Mark Ruffalo started. He hosted an event where she raced a solar-powered car–it was just unbelievable. She has a huge following. NASCAR is actually the number one spectator sport in America, so the impact she has, and her platform to create awareness around green, is really powerful.
2. Greta Eagan, blogger, stylist and author
Photo: gretaeagan.com
Greta Eagan has been a powerful force of awareness with her amazing Fashion Me Green blog. An eco-stylist, model and writer of Wear No Evil: How to Change the World With Your Wardrobe, Greta truly walks the talk and is the embodiment of eco-chic beauty.
3. Erin Schrode, speaker and entrepreneur
Photo: erinschrode.com
Erin Schrode is a rising star like you’ve never met. When she was 13 years old, she started an organization called Teens Turning Green, which has now turned into tens of thousands of high school and college kids all over the country that are educating their peers around the green movement in food, in fashion and in lifestyle. They recently changed the name to just Turning Green because Erin and the first generation of this organization are now in their early 20s, but she’s still out there traveling the world as a young green leader.
4. Starre Vartan, author and blogger
Photo: eco-chick.com
Starre Vartan, founder and editor of Eco-Chick, was one of the early bloggers and writers around the eco-fashion space. She has been out there building content and educating people. Education has always been a really important propellant in driving this movement forward, so I applaud her work.
5. Zoe Helene, artist and environmental activist
Photo by Tracy Eller
Zoe Helene started an organization called Cosmic Sister, where she’s connected women from all different sectors. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts, so as we all come together and share our collective voices, we’re stronger together than apart. She’s also been a leading voice among women within the natural products industry, and she is doing some great work in the plant world too, in terms of recognizing the symbiotic relationship that humanity and the plant kingdom have.
]]>An organic cotton V-neck tee by Under the Canopy.
You created and trademarked the term eco-fashion in 1995. What’s surprised you about the way the industry has evolved over the past 20 years? What’s surprised me most is how long it took to take root. The outdoor apparel industry got it so much faster, and I think that’s because of that sector’s connection to the environment. But fashion has such great storytelling cachet that I thought eco-fashion would’ve gained momentum much sooner. A lot of early pioneers–talented people–just couldn’t withstand that timeline and ended up dropping out of the space.
While the eco-fashion movement was picking up steam in the outdoor space, the fast fashion movement was picking up steam in the fashion space, which was the antithesis. We almost had to get to an extreme for the fashion industry to wake up and embrace the change. I think that’s what happened, and Rana Plaza was a big catalyst for this.
Louise Roe wearing Under the Canopy’s Molly leggings. Photo: louiseroe.com
Do you believe that we’re approaching the tipping point for ethical and sustainable fashion? Is there anything about this moment in time that feels different from where this movement has been in the past? A thousand percent. The Internet and the digital world have changed the game. People are longing for storytelling and connection, and the timing has never been better in terms of leveraging social media as a wildfire tool to educate.
That’s always been the missing link: education. There are all these different spokes on the wheel of eco-fashion, whether you’re talking about organic products or fair trade, or ethically made items or minimizing impacts–whichever battle you want to pick. Now that we can be online and share stories that resonate, it’s all starting to grow exponentially.
And now you see sites like Ethica that are becoming portals where, once people have that education, they can actually translate it into action. There was really a lack of that.
Catt Sadler in an Under the Canopy tee. Photo courtesy of Under the Canopy
Which among your many accomplishments makes you most proud? The meta answer to that is the fact that when I created the term eco-fashion in the early ’90s and trademarked it in 1995, it didn’t exist. People thought I was absolutely crazy, and every time I said the term, people laughed at me and said, “Marci, no one is ever going to buy into that. Those are two completely dichotomous worlds. People who are into ecology and humanitarianism and consciousness are not the people who are into fashion. And the people who are into fashion, they look at the green, humanitarian, consciousness world as a bunch of weirdo hippie treehuggers. You’re stepping into a paradox, and it doesn’t make sense.”
But I’m a bridge builder, so I suppose that I get incredible joy now at seeing that that bridge has been built, and that today when you say eco-fashion, people don’t give you a blank-eyed stare. They say, “Of course.” Wow. And especially the younger generation, they get it instantly.
“I’ve learned that the way to stay in balance and harmony is to have one set of values and not two. To have your personal and professional lives in sync.”
Zaroff with former Vice President Al Gore. Photo courtesy of Marci Zaroff
You always look radiant, and you're always such a positive presence. What are your secrets for inner and outer beauty? Building on what I was just saying, it’s not about ‘this or that,’ it’s about ‘this and that.’ It’s about no compromises, so for me, looking good is important, but so is feeling good and doing good. I’ve learned that the way to stay in balance and harmony and radiate true health is to have one set of values and not two. To have values where your personal and your professional lives are in sync, and you live a healthy and conscious lifestyle and make choices that resonate on a deep level.
It’s like water for chocolate in that you want the energy of what you’re putting in and on your body to touch you on every level. And so I live with passion and purpose, and love is a big part of that. I find love to be the key ingredient in everything that I do.
Related Story: Meet 5 Eco Babes Who Inspired Under the Canopy's Debut Collection
Under the Canopy's organic cotton moto sweatpants.
As a woman who is living her passion and leading several companies, what’s the best piece of leadership advice you can offer? We create whatever reality we can envision, so you have to find your inner strength and trust your gut. One of the comments I find myself saying on a regular basis when I do public speaking is to always follow your heart, not your head, because it’s within you, the inner strength within you, where your soul lives, where your truth lives, that you really have all the answers you need. It goes back to being about no compromise and trusting your gut. Oh, and never ask why. Ask why not.
]]>Giordano has unapologetically positioned Dolores Haze as a feminist brand.
When did you first read Lolita? Did you know at the time that it would have a lasting influence on you? I first read Lolita at 17, and upon finishing thought, “Dolores Haze is the most badass name for a fashion line.” My initial experience in the design world coincided with reading Lolita: interning at Nicole Miller. It was clear then that I wanted to work in fashion and that I had found the perfect name for a future line. Shortly thereafter, I bought the domain, knowing that one day down the road I’d have my own brand.
“When I first read Lolita, I thought, 'Dolores Haze is the most badass name for a fashion line.' Shortly thereafter, I bought the domain, knowing that one day I’d have my own brand.”
What is the story behind your SS15 collection, “A Stranger I Know”? Each season, I seek the sentiment of nostalgia for inspiration. The SS15 collection was inspired by the notion of a memory of someone eroding and fading over time, thereupon becoming “The Stranger I Know.” This idea was mirrored with the floral graph-check print. I took photographs of flowers and then manipulated them to look as though they’ve been xeroxed over and over again, leaving a grainy image less sharp than the original.
Related Story: The Making of Dolores Haze's Must-Have SS15 Print
How is the undercurrent of darkness that defines Dolores Haze manifested in this collection? It's manifested in an array of manners, be it creating menswear-inspired motorcycle jackets with feminine silk floral linings or unexpectedly using leather in pastel shades for sexy halter tops and tanks. The juxtaposition of color and fabrication is our go-to way to bring in the layer of darkness that informs our aesthetic.
Styles from the Dolores Haze SS15 collection.
Can you speak to the idea that women self-objectify through their fashion choices? How is Dolores Haze a response to that? Many women self-objectify through their fashion choices by becoming hyperaware of how to hide whatever their perceived physical flaws may be. The media socializes many young women to conflate their worth with their appearance. You flip open magazines and they're filled with pages touching on an array of insecurities: how to dress to conceal X, Y and Z physical faults.
Giordano outside her Brooklyn studio wearing Dolores Haze SS15.
I have fashionable friends with an array of body types–they wear what they want, and style it well. We need to teach girls that your confidence isn’t dependent on what the media teaches us a flawless body is. It’s your confidence, drive, passions and empathy that make you attractive. Shopping and getting dressed up should be a means to make women feel positive, because nothing’s sexier than confidence.
We love that you openly approach fashion design from both a sociological and artistic perspective. Why do you think so many designers are reluctant to express an ideology? This notion that having an intellectual identity might undermine good design feels reminiscent of stereotypes that polarize femininity, beauty and intelligence. Thank you! That’s so great to hear that my approach to design is appreciated. I’m not sure why many labels shy away from incorporating an ideology into their brand identity. My first assumption is a concern with commercial viability, and the dilemma that haunts many creatives as to whether or not to dilute your voice to make it more accessible. The two shouldn’t be mutually exclusive.
The Dolores Haze SS15 lookbook.
What gave me the impetus to fully embrace and integrate philosophical and sociological inspiration was my experience studying abroad at Central Saint Martins in London. During our first class, the professor proclaimed that we could be inspired by anything from German philosopher Martin Heidegger, to the emotions evoked after a one-night stand. This innovative approach to cultivating creativity is what possessed me to design with an intellectual approach.
Within the fashion world, womanhood seems to be unintentionally cast into female stereotypes of girly, goth, office-wear, preppy, etc., but women’s identities are far more complex. This feeds into the notion of polarized femininity. What I gravitate toward is a mix, and I felt there needed to be a label that embraced the complexity of femininity.
Scenes from Giordano's studio.
For all the “literary D.Haze babes” out there, what are some other novels that you love or found influential? Some other novels that I love for all the literary D.Haze babes are: Vladimir Nabokov’s Pale Fire, Fyodor Dostoevsky's Notes from Underground, and Nathanael West’s The Day of the Locust.
During my youth, my influences were confessional poets such as Anne Sexton and Sylvia Plath. As I got older, I began to be influenced and engrossed in the world of philosophy, reading Simone de Beauvoir, Michel Foucault and Judith Butler. I was often told by people that my appreciation of philosophy would be useless in whatever career path I choose. I’m so grateful that I’m actually able to integrate this into my work.