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It’s not often that fashion choices can be reduced to mathematical formulas. But there's a reason that cashmere is a wintertime staple, and it boils down to one compelling equation: its warmth-to-weight ratio. Put another way, this fine natural fiber–which is said to be eight times warmer than sheep's wool–offers maximum toastiness with minimum bulkiness.

Another plus? Cashmere is one of the most long-lasting fibers around. Connoisseurs claim that garments made from this paper-thin yarn can last up to 30 years–just as long as you show them a little TLC. Heed these six tips, and your cashmere should keep you cozy for years and years to come.

1. Shave regularly. Knits made from natural fibers can pill–a.k.a., form fuzz balls–in areas where friction occurs, such as under the arms, along the inside of the thighs, or where you carry your handbag. Pilling occurs most frequently when cashmere is brand new; use a razor blade, lint tape or special device like the Gleener to keep yours fuzz-free.

2. Don't wear and wash. Assuming your day was free of stains, spills and sweating, you can wear your cashmere more than once before it requires cleaning. Laundering is recommended after about three wears, but you can up that number if you're wearing yours over a base layer, or if you air it out after each use (tip: try a special freshening spray if needed).
 

"A cashmere knit is like a book. It is something to save and go back to time after time. It is the feeling of an embrace." –Brunello Cucinelli

3. Ignore what the label says. Because it's a delicate yarn, many cashmere items are labeled “Dry Clean Only.” But cashmere comes from goats, and goats' fur–like human hair–gets fluffier and more lustrous after it's washed. By contrast, dry cleaning* will damage and break down the fibers over time.

When to make an exception: If your item has special buttons, metals, embroidery or beading, follow the care instructions on the label, or do further research on the best way to get it clean.

4. Wash your cashmere in cold water and use a mild detergent. Hand washing your cashmere items is always your best bet. Some cashmere buffs advise soaks of up to two or three hours to achieve that aforementioned fluffiness, but anywhere in the vicinity of 20 minutes will do the trick. And while purists staunchly oppose the idea of ever popping precious cashmere into a machine, some of the more laidback experts agree that turning a cashmere garment inside out and putting it in the washer for a brief, gentle-cycle spin on occasion is ok.

Two important things to remember when you wash: any form of heat will shrink cashmere faster than you can say "crop top," so make sure the water's cold. And regular detergent is too harsh for cashmere; use two teaspoons of organic baby shampoo or a biodegradable wool wash instead.

5. Time is the best fabric softener. Can cashmere even get any softer? Incredibly, the answer is yes–but it's best to let that happen naturally over time. Adding fabric softener will likely have the opposite effect. If you're absolutely compelled to soften, try an all-natural, DIY version made from white vinegar or baking soda.


6. Lay flat. Be patient. Cashmere is at its most delicate when the fibers are wet, so this is the stage that requires the most care. Unfortunately, wet cashmere can take days to dry, so this is also the stage that requires the most patience. The cardinal rule here is no wringing; to gently press excess water out of your garment, place it on a dry towel and carefully roll it up. Once the towel has absorbed as much of the moisture as possible, shape the garment and lay it flat in a shady spot to dry.

We don't recommend doing this every time you wash, but if you need a dry garment sooner rather than later, you can put it in the dryer for five minutes to speed things up. Then lay it flat to complete the process. It bears repeating that heat causes cashmere to shrink, so remember to use the air dry setting only.

Bonus Tip: While some of these facts are cashmere-specific, you can follow this process to clean and care for any pure woolens. Do not follow these steps if your garments are cashmere or wool blends with synthetic components (acrylic, nylon, polyester, etc.), or for lined items like wool jackets and suits.

*That's not all we have to say about dry cleaning; see #4 in our 5 Laundry Rules To Live By.

Mother Earth, in our book. But officially, the top honor went to K/ller Collection for the duo’s handcrafted, recycled-metal jewelry. Designers Kate deGuzman and Michael Miller coax beauty out of organic objects that others might consider waste, delicately casting oxidized metals over items like fox claws, naturally shed porcupine quills, and horns sourced as byproduct from the farming industry.

AND! We were oh-so proud to see Study’s Tara St. James take a runner-up slot in the competition. Among the many reasons we’ve long considered her prize-worthy: her process bucks the traditional fashion calendar, she expresses the importance of ethical fashion through poignant projects like her Makers' Hands photo series, and she created the most flattering dress in the world.

We’re also tipping our hats to two of Ethica’s newest designers, Laura Siegel and Amour Vert, for ranking among the finalists.

The other finalists in this year’s challenge were Blair Lauren Brown and Aurora James of Brother Vellies. Reformation’s Yael Aflalo was the other runner-up. Get to know them all in this video from the CFDA.

There have been criticisms in the past that the standards for the CFDA / Lexus challenge are too lax (30 percent of the materials used by the brands are required to be eco-friendly, up from 25 percent at the inception of the competition). But what’s clear from this year's group of finalists and winners–all of whom have made significant commitments to sustainability and social good–is that they each set their own bar, and they set it high.

"An epic struggle between innocent angels and menacing demons" plays out in Daniel Silverstein's fall collection, with the Gothic theme elegantly articulated in the designer's custom prints. Based on an illustration created with frequent collaborator Kayleigh Martin, the prints depict landscapes that have captured artists' imaginations for centuries: Heaven and Hell.

The otherworldly imagery makes for spellbinding designs, but anyone who's ever met Silverstein will tell you he radiates far more light than dark. Follow him on Instagram, and you'll see him staging a fashion show to raise funds for cancer research, playing host to the American Sewing Guild in his studio, designing t-shirts to benefit New York's Save the Garment Center campaign, sharing his expertise with students, and speaking at a fundraiser for the Jersey Battered Women's Service (with his mom on his arm). And, of course, there's the fact that he's dedicated his career to promoting responsible American manufacturing and pioneering zero-waste fashion design.


To frame it another way, one might say that Silverstein possesses qualities like kindness, diligence, charity and humility–all ranked among the Seven Heavenly Virtues–in spades. So where is the part of him that inspired all of this season's ghoulish glamour? Glimpse the designer's devilish side as he details his Seven Deadly Sins in this fill-in-the-blanks-style confession.

LUST
The current object of my desire is... a new tattoo.

GLUTTONY
My binge food is... potato chips. I can have... a family sized bag ...in one sitting.

GREED
There’s no such thing as too many... shoes.

SLOTH
You'll never lure me out of bed... if there's no coffee.

WRATH
Waste ...brings out my inner Solange-in-the-elevator.

ENVY
I’d kill for... straight hair.

PRIDE
At the risk of sounding like Kanye, I’m the greatest... at impressions.

As landfill-bound pumpkin suits and plastic witch hats take over store shelves, we can think of no better time to catch up with Ariana Boussard-Reifel. The founder of hip vintage e-tailer Mode Marteau is invariably the coolest-looking woman in the room, not in small part because she can make fashion magic out of virtually anything.

For those hoping to put together a low-impact Halloween look, we enlisted Boussard-Reifel's sought-after skills with pre-owned clothing and accessories. Whether you’re a thrifting novice or a secondhand-shopping pro, this “one-of-a-find” specialist has 10 on-point tips for how to make a killer costume out of vintage finds. By doing so, you’ll be extending the lifecycle of someone else’s discarded belongings–and maybe even scoring bonus points for authenticity.

Mode Marteau's Ariana Boussard-Reifel.

1. Be flexible–but do have a plan. Have two or three possible costumes in mind and see what pieces you find. Maybe you were going to be a zombie, but then you found an amazing Sgt. Pepper jacket... Be a dead Beatle.

2. Some DIY may be required, but you don’t have to be a tailor. Safety pins are your best friends, as are pinking shears. You can get away with remarkably little sewing if you drape creatively and use lots of pins. Brooches and belts also work well for tacking a costume together and adding sparkle.

3. The accessories make the outfit. It's amazing what the right props can convey. Just like with everyday styling, you can have a simple outfit, but if you throw on great jewels and shoes (or a hat and a pitchfork!), you will really stand out.

4. This is the only time that quality can be thrown out the window. I’m fanatical about quality in all vintage and secondhand purchases. But since this is a one-night deal, I think it's fine to buy that moth-eaten polyester gown as a base to your '60s housewife costume.

5. Don’t lose sight of potential gems in the hunt. You already get big sustainability brownie points for shopping secondhand for your costume (and not throwing another styrofoam Spiderman bodysuit in the landfill). But you can really rein in your carbon footprint if you select items that can be a part of your regular wardrobe after Halloween.

6. Shop early. Most thrift shops have a separate costume section starting in September, comprised of pieces that they've been saving all year but deemed too bizarre for every day. This can be a serious treasure trove–I have stacks of antique silk kimonos that I found just this way!

7. Don’t shop the usual suspects. There are excellent thrift stores around the country. (In New York, I love Housing Works.) These great shops excel because they pre-sort out all the riffraff. It makes it easy to shop, and the chance of finding designer pieces in great shape is much higher. But there is a downside, which is that they don't tend to have random things of little value. So you probably won’t find a 25-cent bag of yarn that will make your Raggedy Ann costume, or a pink XL Hanes shirt that you can rip up into a flamingo dress. For costuming, the less curated the shop, the more creative you get to be.
 

A full-body base layer will give you something to pin and stitch to–even to paint.

8. You don’t have to reinvent the wheel. We all want to be original, but sometimes an old favorite–say, Cleopatra–can be truly remarkable if you find a unique way to express it. The added bonus is that you’ll be familiar enough with the style vernacular (gold and blue; a headdress; snakes) that it will be easier to find pieces, because you'll know what you're looking for. If you want originality points, you can riff off an old standard and turn your Cleopatra into Nefertiti (add a conical hat), or even post-asp-bite Cleopatra (use ghostly make-up).

9. Start with a base layer. Whether for modesty or because it can be darn chilly in October, start with something to build on. It can be a black catsuit, a long red nightgown, or even nude stockings. A full-body base layer will give you something to pin and stitch to–even to paint. Plus, it will keep you warm enough to trick-or-treat all night long.

10. Get to the core. Think about what is essential to the costume, and start your hunt for that. If you’re going to be a ghost, you need things that are white and perhaps a bit tattered. Don’t head straight for the sheets, as you could find something that fits that category in almost any department, from skirts to curtains to stuffed animals. When you layer them on, you’ll have a great one-of-a-find costume.

For vintage-costume inspiration, follow Ethica's Vintage Halloween Costumes board on Pinterest.

Where some people see outfits, writer Emily Spivack sees culture, history and meaning. Spivack is the founder of Threaded, the Smithsonian's fashion history blog, and Sentimental Value, an archive of clothing tales culled from eBay. Her latest project, Worn Stories, is a collection of first-person narratives that illuminate the links between garments and memory.

“I introduced it as a website in 2010, just to begin collecting stories and start working through the idea. But I always knew I wanted it to be a book,” Spivack says. That book, also called Worn Stories, was published in late August by Princeton Architectural Press. Featuring clothing-inspired vignettes from 67 participants, it's been hailed as “a handy antidote to fast fashion” by the New York Times.


We spoke to Spivack about the connections we form with the things we wear. As for the items in her own wardrobe that she holds close? There’s a pair of peach socks that date back to the sixth grade, a ring that once belonged to her grandmother, and Doc Martens from her teenage years.

Over the course of working on Worn Stories, did you find that it was a piece of clothing that drove and helped shape memorable experiences among the people you interviewed? Or were the garments incidental and memorable only because they were part of larger and more significant experiences? What I found and what I love about the project is that the article of clothing finds its way into the story in different ways. Sometimes the story starts out with the piece of clothing, and the clothing is really like a character. At other times, it’s almost like a punchline–you’re not really sure where this is going and how it relates to a garment, and then it ties into it at the end.

Nearly every bride has a wedding dress story. Are there certain kinds of items that came up more often than others–“firsts,” hand-me-downs, concert tees? It’s anything from a pair of leg warmers and a fur-lined, suede, full-length coat, to a chainmail bikini top, a t-shirt that’s ripped and, yes, a wedding dress that’s been adapted. It could not be a more diverse set of things, and set of stories, too.




In such a varied group of items and stories, did any common themes emerge? The one thing that is consistent, no matter how prominent or how minimal the garment’s role is, is that the focus is ultimately on the story. The clothing is a conduit or a means to tell the story, but it’s ultimately about accessing the story through the piece of clothing.

Which story resonated with you the most on a personal level? There isn’t one that’s my favorite just because I love them all. I think that what was surprising to me is that I would get on the phone with someone or ask them to contribute a story, and I would never have any idea what kind of story they wanted to contribute or what their piece of clothing would be. That’s what was so much fun, to have no idea what to expect.


Worn Stories is available at Powell's, McNally Jackson, Barnes & Noble and Amazon.

She's constantly surrounded by some of the most beautiful clothes in the world, but ethics and sustainability are what really make a garment appealing to stylist Lauren Bockow. After working with her on our summer lookbook and hearing a few of her behind-the-scenes tales, we asked Bockow to share what prompted her to want to work with sustainable brands, and what life as a stylist is really like.

Fashion styling is one of those "dream jobs" that is infinitely harder and less glamorous than it looks. What was your journey into the profession? After studying photography in Boston, I moved to NYC, where I was showing my art in galleries. Rather than being a starving artist, I got a job in advertising at CBS. I learned all about branding, research and marketing. It was very much a sink-or-swim sitution, and in order to survive I needed to find emerging brands that no one had worked with at CBS.

I found that I was really great and passionate at spotting trends and emerging brands, which led me to working as a trend editor for American Express. At AmEx, I helped build their first web-based flash sales company, which later became Vente-Privée USA. After successfully launching this brand, I felt the need to go back to my visually creative roots. I landed a job in a fashion photography studio, where I was introduced to styling.




Do you have any on-the-job war stories you can share? When I first started as an assistant, I once had to return $15,000 worth of clothes in less than an hour at a large dept store. I was given a shopping cart full of clothes stacked up to my head, plus an additional huge Ikea bag full of clothes, and I was supposed to do it all in one trip.

All of the clothes were completely mixed up in huge piles, even though they had been purchaced from four separate departments. Once I was almost done, the sales clerk insisted on keeping the original receipt, which I agreed to just so I could get out of there. When I returned to the stylist's house, she demanded that I go back to the store to retreive the original receipt. I went all the way back, only to find that the original had already been stored away and would be impossible to retrieve. At this point, the store was getting ready to close, but somehow I convinced the manager to go back through their files from earlier that day and print me a copy of the receipt.

You've styled shoots for the likes of Bloomingdale's, DVF, J. Crew, and recently became a full-time stylist at Net-a-Porter. What made you interested in also collaborating with ethical and sustainable fashion brands? The past few years, I have become more "sustainably" aware of what I consume, from food to fashion, and my goal is to become more socially and environmentally responsible. I believe it will change how we treat and trade with each other worldwide for the better, in turn making the world a better place.

We enlisted your talents for our summer lookbook. Which one of the looks you styled was your favorite? There were so many I loved! I’ll have to give you my top three: the white crewneck sweater by Litke with the Ace & Jig track shorts, the organic cotton Easy pants by Litke with the Samantha Pleet tank, and the Hatsuyo pegged pants by Crazy Wind.

Did you discover any new designers at Ethica that you'll be keeping your eye on? Litke – I definitely want to keep an eye on this one. Also, Etnia Barcelona’s sunglasses.

Has your approach to fashion changed at all since becoming more interested in and involved with the ethical and sustainable fashion space? Yes, I’m much more reluctant to spend money on unethical brands, and I'm constantly researching and keeping my eyes open for new ethically minded brands.

What's your dream gig or project? I would like to combine my artwork with my styling and create something more conceptual for films. I'm actually working on a few projects right now.

As someone who is constantly surrounded by beautiful clothes, what are your favorite places to shop? I love finding hole-in-the-wall thrift stores that have unique pieces that you can't find anywhere else at a cheap price. In NYC, I also like the Brooklyn Fox, Oak, Honey in the Rough, Dover Street Market and many others. Other than finding unique local shopping spots, I prefer skipping crowds and shopping online instead.

American designer Catherine Litke has perfected summer style (her striped cape-back blouse and white cutoffs are our current weekend uniform). That's why it's no surprise that she's got the summer soundtrack down, too. Get a load of the tunes she'll be rocking out to over the next few weeks, and click here to listen to her playlist on Spotify.

    
     1. "Banana Split" by Lio

     2. "Seeds of Sight" by Body Language

     3. "Time Will Tell" by Blood Orange

     4. "Better Days" by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros

     5. "Dress Sexy At My Funeral" by Smog

     6. "L8 CMMR" by Lily Allen

     7. "Completely Not Me" by Jenny Lewis

     8. "Camino Del Sol (Todd Terje Remix)" by Antena

     9. "Sita Devi" by Vensaire

     10. "Ways To Go" by Grouplove

     11. "Get A Life" by Little Red

Passion for fashion might be a catchphrase that sums up most designers’ raison d’être. But Magaly Fuentes-Sagan has a passion for people, as well. The Pashen Collection founder has first and foremost built strong relationships with the artisans who make her clothes, and these relationships are the heart of her brand.

“When I love something or someone, I’m the type of person who wants to learn every angle of it,” says Fuentes-Sagan. Her brand name is  a portmanteau of "shen," which means "spirit" in Chinese, and "passion," which she describes as the driving force in her life. “I worked in several areas of fashion to test the waters, find my niche and learn as much about the industry as I could.”

Fueled by the desire to be immersed in the field, Fuentes-Sagan has worn many hats. After stints working as a merchandiser at Saks Fifth Avenue, an apprentice with a couture bridal designer, a fashion publicist and a product manager–she realized something was missing. So she packed up her things, sold her house and moved to a small fishing village in Nicaragua to work at a surf lodge. Once she made the decision to really investigate what she wanted to do with her life, things seemed to start conspiring in her favor. She landed a writing gig at Eco Fashion World, and she would eventually go on to become the website’s owner and editor-in-chief.

“After returning to the States from Nicaragua, I spent months contacting various artisan groups,” says Fuentes-Sagan. “I have built such strong relationships with the people I work with, and we have learned so much from each other that it brings new meaning to that saying about the importance of the journey over the destination. Even several years into this, from the birth of the idea to today, Pashen is just in its infancy, with so much room for growth. I am beyond excited about the prospects. The strength of the ethical fashion community revolves around relationship building and working together.”

Each and every piece produced by Pashen Collection reveals the connections Fuentes-Sagan draws between her artisan collaborators, passion and spirit. Scroll down to discover the story behind each piece in her own words.

1. KNIT SHORTS
"I designed these when it was winter, and I really wanted a cozy pair of shorts to wear with my off-the-shoulder sweatshirt and slouchy knit boots. [Ed. note: Fuentes-Sagan lives in Florida.] They can be worn so many ways. These are made in Peru on an artisanal machine operated by an artisan."

2. INDIGO IKAT SCARF
"There is quite the journey and story behind the design of this piece. I went back and forth via email for months with the American anthropologist who leads the artisan group in Thailand that made these for me. I combined traditional techniques with some modern twists.

The design is a combination of shapes, which include hearts (love), diamonds (the diamond shape represents protection to Native Americans), nāga (serpent deities; the artisans shared with me that, to them, it symbolizes protection from evil). These scarves are hand-dyed with indigo, and the ikat process is so detailed and simply beautiful. Each one is a little different and truly a work of art."

3. HEART STRINGS WOOL SCARF
"If you look closely at the pattern on this, [you'll see it consists of] hearts. There were three rounds of swatch samples made for these because I wanted the hearts to be obvious, and I wanted them in a very specific size. These shawls are oversized and so cozy, you just want to live wrapped in one."

4. CROCHET SHORTS
"These were inspired by peacock feathers and doilies. They were handmade by an artisan in Peru. I literally cut and pieced together doilies to show them how I wanted the pattern to work on these. There is a lot of detail. The artisan did an amazing job translating my vision."

5. CROCHET DRESS
"This dress is a beautifully pieced-together puzzle of some of my favorite dress elements. The sleeves are influenced by one dress I own, the neckline by another, and the empire waist by yet another. The open crochet look gives the dress a lot of versatility because it can be worn right over a bikini in the summer or with a slip dress with sandals on warm nights. It can even be worn over a sweater dress in the winter."

6. CHERRY BLOSSOM SILK SCARF
"I designed the motif on this scarf, and each one is printed on organic silk in Cambodia. The artisans also hand-sewed the delicate hem on these scarves. The cherry blossom represents the beauty and fragility of life. It’s something close to my heart. Cherry blossoms are a reminder not to take things for granted and see life as a gift every day."

It is often difficult to articulate all of the work that goes into making a single garment. Not so in the case of CRAZY WIND, an independent womenswear label based in Portland, Oregon. Helmed by designer Chiyo Takahashi, Crazy Wind harnesses the exceptional craftsmanship of two worlds: local American garment-making and a Japanese textile tradition. The collection is made in Portland, using an ikat fabric called kasuri.

Dating back nearly 200 years, kasuri was historically used in Japan for home decor, kimonos and clothing. Cheaper, faster-to-make and mass produced fabrics have contributed to a steep decline in demand for kasuri–which is why designer Takahashi is out to spark a comeback. Aided by her mother, who lives in Nagoya, Takahashi sources the increasingly rare material from 100-year-old, family-run factories in remote regions of Japan.

The making of kasuri is a painstaking, laborious process–a cultural and economic tradition that stands as a stark contrast to fast, disposable fashion. Below, a few facts about this Japanese wonder fabric:

   • Rather than dyeing and printing a piece of fabric, making kasuri requires tie-dyeing the yarn first, then weaving the various colors into a pattern. As a result of this process, there is a soft, subtle blurring of the patterns on the finished fabric. Because the patterns are woven rather than printed, the design of the fabric is also visible on the reverse side.

   • From designing motifs to applying the finishing touches, this high-quality textile goes through more than 30 different stages before it is completed. Each individual process requires skills and experience specific to that step.

   • It takes about two months to complete a single roll of kasuri (40-cm wide, 12-m long), which yields only enough fabric for one adult-size kimono.


Images courtesy of Crazy Wind

After working in corporate insurance for 11 years, Nicola Woods took a sabbatical to travel the world. It was during this journey that the founder and creative director of BEAUTIFUL SOUL LONDON decided to revisit her childhood interest in fashion design. "I found my calling sitting under a cherry blossom tree in the heart of Tokyo," Woods reveals.

That instant was the inspiration for the label's spring-summer 2014 collection, which is dominated by vibrant prints of the ephemeral Japanese flower. "I wanted to translate that life-changing moment, giving it a twist of Notting Hill charm," the designer explains.

Said charm comes through in the label's new lookbook, which takes viewers on a summery journey through the tony London neighborhood. As the name Beautiful Soul suggests, however, the brand's appeal extends beyond its stunning designs and visuals, and to the ethos that is at the company's core. "I have grown the brand from a dream: that luxury fashion can offer a transparent supply chain," Woods says. "The label is committed to a conscious approach to fabric sourcing and environmental impact, as well as local production that supports the regeneration of U.K. manufacturing."